A very dear friend and I built this entrance mirror about
a year ago and did not take any pictures while in the process of putting it
together. You will need to tailor the
size based on the full length mirror that you purchase. I went to a home improvement store and bought
the mirror and supplies. I picked out molding
to frame the mirror. This enables you to
make his project contemporary, country, Victorian or anything that excites you. I had fun and it has put a personal touch in
my hallway.
You will need:
A full length mirror
½” Square bumper pads
18” Hangman picture hanging system
Drill and 3/16” drill bit to drill pilot holes
Sander and sand paper
Clamps
Flathead sheet metal screws – 1 ½” and 3” ***keep in mind
the depth of the back and molding when
selecting the screw size***
selecting the screw size***
Mitre to cut the corners of the molding
½ ” Spacers to use with the floating shelf
Wood glue
Stain
Polyurethane
Paintbrush
Rags
Molding to go around mirror
Hardboard for the back of the mirror
Wood plugs – if you counter sink screws on the shelf
(optional)
Wood List:
Front
Molding for around the front of the mirror
Back – Hardboard 3/16th depth, 21 ¾”
wide and 63 ¾” long (remember you may need to adjust the measurements based on
the mirror you buy.
Shelf
I used ¾” oak.
(1)
Top – 5 ½” wide X 33 ¾” long
(1)
Short top – 5 ½” wide X 4 ¼” long
(2)
Ends – 5 ½” wide X 4” long
(3)
Hangers – 5 ½” wide X 2” long
(1)
Trough – 5 ½” wide 6 1/2” long
(1)
Bottom – 5 ½” wide X 43 ½” long
Assembly
ou
need to plan out this section. Depending
on the size of your mirror and the molding you chose, this will determine the
size of the hardboard for the back of the project.
Now that you have the sizes of the back cut sand and wipe
it. Next center the mirror on the back
and glue it in place. Use clamps to hold
it in place while it dries. While the
mirror is drying cut the molding. You
will need to use a mitre box to make the corners. Once the mirror is dry you need to attach the
molding. Use screws from the back to
attach the molding. Be careful not to
crack the mirror.
Now that you have the sizes of the back cut sand and wipe
it. Next center the mirror on the back and glue it in place. Use clamps to hold
it in place while it dries. While the
mirror is drying cut the molding. You
will need to use a mitre box to make the corners. Once the mirror is dry you need to attach the
molding. Use screws from the back to
attach the molding. Be careful not to
crack the mirror.
Shelf assembly:
Cut all the pieces.
The sizes provided above should be ok.
Measure just to make sure. Cut
and sand all the pieces. You can
countersink the screws and use a wood plug if you want. This adds a nice finishing touch. Drill pilot holes to keep from stripping the
screws. Make the trough, and complete
the process of putting the top shelf together.
Turn the top piece over and attach the bottom.
*** This project has a floating shelf. That means you are going to use spacers when
attaching the shelf to the frame***
At this point you need to stain the molding and the shelf
separately. Put tape around the mirror
so when you are staining it won’t get on the mirror. Once dry put 2 coats of polyurethane on the
shelf and molding.
Now you are ready to attach the shelf to the mirror
frame. Decide where you are going to put
the shelf. Drill a 3/16” pilot hole (so
the screw doesn’t strip) from the back through the molding (again make sure you
are not too close to the mirror or it will crack). Using the longer screw from the back put the
screw through add the spacer and then the shelf. Make sure you use the spacer between the mirror and the shelf.
Hang It
Attach the picture hanging system to the back of the
mirror make sure you center it and make it flush with the top edge. Next secure the other half (wall cleat) to
the wall using two studs. Add the
bumpers to the bottom corners and hang.
Be very proud of this beautiful welcoming addition to
your home!
As always reach out to me if you have any questions.
Thanks.
Lisa
Lisa
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